Fly Line |
|
|
|
This was incredibly confusing to me at first, then upon investigation I found it to be pretty straight-forward. Picture of a typical fly line box. WF-5-S is the common format for fly line description on the packaging. Each of the three parts of the code tell the angler something different.
WF: This first component indicates the taper style. There are only two that as a beginner we need to think about; WF (weight forward) and DT (double taper). WF fly line is designed with extra weight - you guessed it - at the head of the line. This helps when casting against the wind and/or to get some extra distance. If you purchase this type of line, make *sure* that the proper end is attached to the backing (reel side) so that the weight is actually at the forward end.
5: The second component of the code indicates the weight. This number should be matched to your rod/reel weight number as a beginner. Many, many fly fishing articles discuss the benefits of using a weight (or two) smaller than your rig, but that is another advanced technique, and for now just make it match. For the sake of knowledge; the number is the weight in grains of the first 30ft of fly line.
S: The last component is an indication of whether the line is Sinking or Floating line. S or F. Floating line is the most versatile as split-shot weights can always be added to help get a streamer or nymph down the water column. Sinking line sinks... there really isn't any middle ground. I have two reels, one with each type of line.
So, when you see DT-7-F; that's Double Tapered, 7 weight, Floating line. Just to repeat what I have been told, use WF or DT, match the line weight to the rod/reel and start with floating line if you only have one rig.
Color
The general rule of thumb is; if it sinks, match the water color or darker. If it floats, pick a color that you can easily see, because the fish will see it no matter the color.
|








